Building an Electronic Caller

-Step by Step Instruction-

...by David Rearick

Using an e-caller for hunting snow geese is something that is the norm rather than the exception. With the new conservation orders on the east coast that will allow for the use of e-callers during the expanded season, there is an increased amount of use available for those people that either build or buy an e-caller for use during the spring season. There are only two options when you make your mind up to run one 1) buy one of the manufactured systems or 2) build it yourself. While building your own e-caller can sound like a task for only those with increased electronics knowledge, it is actually rather simple to do and can be done in 2-3 hours time. Below is a how-to, step-by-step, article on how to build an e-caller and the components you need to buy to get started.

Equipment List- You will need some various items to get started:
Heat Gun or Lighter
Pliers
Wiring crimpers/cutters
Wire strippers
Drill with various size drill bits
Scissors
Soldering gun, solder, and flux
Needle-Nose pliers
Phillips Screw-Driver
Crescent Wrench

Part List- Here are the list of parts used to build the e-caller in the article:
Tool Box
200W 2 Channel Amp
2-25W Power Horns (Radio-Shack Brand)
100’ 16-2 Speaker Wire
In-Line 20A Fuse Holder and Fuse
10, 12 Ga wire
Toggle-On/Off Switch
MP3 Player
Stereo Y-Adapter
2 Sets Solder End Banana Plugs
2 Dual Binding Posts Banana Jacks
2 Butt Splice Connectors (appropriately sized for wire)
Battery Terminal Clamps
Misc Ring and Open-End wire connectors (appropriately sized for wire)
Shrink-Heat Tubing

Getting Started-

The first thing to do is lay out the caller you intend to build. Fit the amp into the toolbox making sure to leave enough room to connect the Y-Adapter and enough room on one side to house the battery. Once you have the position locked down, locate where you would like to install the banana jacks and toggle switch and measure all of your connection lengths from the amp to the connection location. Make sure to leave a little play room so your wiring won’t be too tight and inadvertently pull off when you are setting it up in the morning. Once you have the connection lengths measures, start by cutting the wire to the appropriate lengths. For the battery connections use 10 Ga red and black wires, for the amp output to banana jacks use the 16-2 speaker wire, and finally for the short jumper use about 6” of 12 Ga wire to jumper the remote to the power terminal on the amp. Once yours wires are cut, strip the wire to allow for connections to be crimped on them and get out the shrink tube, connections, and heat gun or lighter. Shown below are the various wires/connections you will need to make before you connect all the components together. Make sure to either use shrink tubing or electrical tape to protect these connections. Also, make sure to install a 20 amp fuse in the inline fuse holder.

Once all the connections have been completed, it is time to locate the position of your toggle switch and banana jacks and drill the box to accommodate the components. Make sure to use the appropriate sized drill bits and carefully drill the holes in the box. Once the holes are completed, install the toggle and banana jacks and resume wiring the components together. Shown below are pictures of components being installed and the wiring being connected to them.

Once the wires are connected to the components, it is time to begin putting together your speakers set-up. Start first by using butt-splice connectors to connect the speakers to the speaker wire. Once you have these connections completed, identify the positive and negative wires on the opposite end and split the wire in half to allow the boot of the banana plugs to slip over it. Once you are assured you have the right wires (positive and negative) get out your soldering equipment and warm of the soldering gun. While the soldering gun warms up, make sure to use steel wool and roughen/clean the inside of the solder cups of the banana plugs and dip the end of each wire into the flux. After the soldering gun is hot, slip the wire into the soldering cup and touch the hot tip of the soldering gun to the wire. Apply solder and allow the solder to wick down into the cup and create a firm connection. Repeat on all four wires (2 per speaker) and allow them to cool before handling them or installing the boot back onto the plug. Shown below are the connections/soldering you will need to complete during this process.

Now that your speakers are ready to go, the connections have been made; it is time to test out the system. Install the Stereo Y-Adapter to the input side of the amp and connect it to your MP3 player (the MP3 player should already be loaded with sounds). At this time drill a hole to feed the Y-Adapter out of the box and into your MP3 player and make sure the MP3 player is off. Turn the toggle switch to the off position and connect the battery clamps to the terminal. Once the connection has been made, switch the toggle to on and make sure the amp powers up successfully. Most amps have an indicator that will initially start out red, and then switch to green when everything is ok, so check your amp specifications to confirm this. Once the amp is powered up and ok, turn on your MP3 player and turn up the volume. There are some adjustments that can be made to your amplifier like bass-flat-treble and others, so you may need to adjust these settings once you get it up and running and set them to your own personal liking.

You are now ready to go, all you needs are the decoys, the wind, and the birds to cooperate!! Good luck out there and always be safe while you’re doing it.

NOTE: It is important to not store the battery in the box with your amplifier. If the battery would tip over and leak out, the acid could destroy the connections and amp. After you are down for the day and before you put it away, take a few seconds to turn off the toggle switch and pull out the battery, it may save you some headaches down the road.